Norway Maples (Acer platanoides) are native to Europe but now constitute a major part of the urban forest in Eastern Massachusetts. They are fast growing and can reach 100 feet or more in height. They have earned a bad reputation and are now listed as invasive and are prohibited for sale. They were planted in the landscape in the 1950s but no one knew what a problem they would become.
Norway Maples are undesirable because they:
Of course, they are large trees and do provide benefits such as shade, wildlife habitat and air filtering and therefore preservation should be considered when possible. Because these maples develop more issues as they become older and larger, they need more intensive management than other species do. The best approach is to have your tree inspected by a qualified arborist and then develop a pruning plan and installation of cabling and bracing specific to your tree’s needs.
Roots conflicting with infrastructure around the home is a common concern; from driveways, patios and pathways to foundations, septic tanks and underground pipes.
A tree in the wild sends its roots far out to seek adequate space for anchorage, nutrition, water and air to supply itself. In the urban and suburban landscape, there aren’t as many welcome places for roots to grow. A prime example of this is on city streets where the soil underneath is very compacted and space is too limited for tree roots to go anywhere, so they push up the sidewalk. Roots will always seek out the easiest source of air, space and water, whether that is through a crack in a pipe, a home foundation or at the surface through the pavement.
So, what can be done short of complete tree removal?
First of all, we want to be certain that there is an actual root issue before condemning the tree. That can be done by air or manual excavation or by going high tech with ground penetrating radar. Also, have any of your infrastructure elements looked at by the appropriate hardscaping/construction inspectors for suspected flaws and root invasion. If roots are indeed found to be invading, here are some management options for consideration:
Tree friendly solutions can be worked out if you plan far enough ahead and if not, creative solutions can be implemented depending on each situation, your budget and dedication to the landscape.
People often see ants on their trees and wonder if they should be concerned for the tree and/or their house if it stands close by.
There are many different species of ants around, but there are two insects that have a significant relationship with wood: Carpenter Ants and Termites.
Carpenter Ants differ from Termites in appearance and behavior. Carpenter ants do not eat wood, but nest in moist, decayed cavities of trees or similarly damp, rotten wood on your home. They are generally not harmful to trees because they don’t tunnel into green/live wood and take up residence in spots that are already decayed. In homes, they are a nuisance pest due to their presence and usually don’t expand their nests into dry and sound lumber.
Termites ecological role is to break down wood into organic matter. They eat wood, nest underground and are only seen outside of their nest when the winged forms fly out to reproduce because they can’t survive in open air. Any old, exposed wood that is touching the ground such as firewood piles, dead branches, old stumps or lumber are attractive to termites. However, they probably won’t fell a live, healthy tree or endanger a home that has been adequately cared for.
For both pests, damp, rotten wood is attractive whether inside or outside the home. It’s smart to keep old wood away from your house and to have any exposed wooden elements of your house inspected and sealed up. Similarly, keep moisture away from your house by trimming trees and shrubs back and make sure gutters and grading keep rainwater away.
1. Anticipate the mature size of a tree when planting it, eventhough it may not be your problem in the long run. Don’t plant trees too close to each other, structures or utilities.
2. Overpruning is common but hard for trees to recover from. Never have your trees topped or overpruned (more than 25% per season)
3. If you have a tree with 2 trunks (co-dominant) or more (multi-stemmed) cabling and bracing can help to strengthen them.
4. Special forms, such as weeping, upright, spirals, etc. require more yearly care and attention than standard forms
5. Fertilizer should be used sparingly and only when needed to avoid your trees getting hooked
6. Keep an eye out for dead branches (with no leaves) because this can indicate a health problem or a hazard if they were to break
7. Cavities/Holes in trees are considered problematic mainly if they are very deep and collect water
8. Don’t postpone dead tree removal because with each passing year the tree becomes more dangerous as it looses it’s strength
9. If you see mushrooms on your tree or around its base these indicate wood or root decay and should be checked out
10. If you have many tree(s) around your property, get a management plan to prioritize which to prune, remove, cable and/or monitor and when